Dario Checchini is often called the world’s best butcher. Some of the boldest-face culinary names worship his work. There are requests to open restaurants in Paris, New York and Berkeley, California. Instead, Mr. Cecchini chooses to remain monarch of his tiny empire of meat in Panzano – just south of Florence: a burger joint, a steakhouse, a restaurant serving the forgotten cuts of the cow — and, supporting it all, the family butchery, where he is on most days between 9 a.m. and 4 p.m.

To watch him slice to the sounds of AC/DC; to see him linger in the doorway, asking passers-by “Va bene?” and offering them free food and wine; all this is to witness a man without anxiety over what might have been if he would have gone out to conquer the world.

A visit to his restaurant is unforgettable. You will never look at meat the same way. Pretty much perfect – not a trend but an hones recommendation.